They were advising people to take up embroidery as a good
therapeutic pastime during the lockdown period, but then I already knew that
have been stitching for years. I had a bigger project in mind.
In many ways it was business as usual, spending days in my
own company, hearing the neighbours going about their daily routine of feeding
and milking the goats. Lockdown had struck as I returned to Brittany, and there
was no immediate way I could head back to Scotland. It was evident right from
the start that there wasn’t going to be any quick fix route back to normality. So,
I started clearing the garden and digging in a load of well-rotted goat manure
deliver from next door. I scrabbled through the seed drawer to discover what
seeds I still had that were within date. It turned out to be a bumper year,
trips to the supermarket became less frequent and I was freezing as well as
giving away masses of vegetable.
For over a year now I had been contemplating how I could
construct a needlework book and had settle on a concertina form as the only
logical solution. All I had to do now was to decide on the size and start
stitching, and from that very point the subject for the first page arrived.
THE ABILITY TO OVERCOME THE FEAR TO BEGIN SEPERATES THE
DREAMER FROM THE ACHIEVER.
Within a classical stylised floral boarder I placed the
letter of the alphabet and below a small thatched Arts and Crafts cottage with
the text “Home sweet home better in being humble”. A white rabbit and brown
hound leaping forth from left and right while behind the garden fence a
profusion of gigantic roses tower higher than the house. I used some left over
ivory coloured curtain lining as the support which gave the image a good clean
crisp look. I used mainly cotton embroidery thread for the finer work only
turning to wool for the cottage and foreground. For the second page I try my
hand at corded appliqué work. I decided on a background of simple black striped
ticking and the subject was a stylised floral arrangement in a shallow dish
place on a table. The table cloth was made from a more ornate piece of 19th
century mattress ticking and the flowers were cut from some old curtain material
sample books. The corded applique was done entirely with tweed wool thread as
were the dark red bobbled stems. It was at this point that a friend’s daughter
Luana arrived from Spain to do her confinement in my cottage next door. We kept
socially distance for a few days, but we were soon sharing morning coffee out
in the garden. As we chatted I would stitch and it wasn’t long before Luana
asked if I had a spare hoop and some wools. During a particularly fine spell of
weather we would sit and stitch or work in the garden. To have the luxury of
such good company was an added bonus that I had not expected.
SAMPLE STICHES, PAGE THREE.
I went through a variety of ideas for this page but in the
end decided that the simplest solution to display sample stitching was to use a
background of ticking. The piece I used has rather fine red and beige stripes,
purchased year ago from a depot vent in Morlaix. Mattress ticking in France
during the late 19th century and up to the middle of the 20th
century remained very traditional and often came in very vibrant colours. I
used a mix of tweed wools and heavy white cotton throughout for both the
stitches and names. I included everything from basic blanket stitch to fishbone
cross stitch and Bokhara couching. In the broad central red panel I embroidered
entwined flowers and a sample of couched basket weave, while a few insects and
a moth appeared stitched in wool.
300 YEAR OLD OAK
During a stroll through the fields across the road form my
house, one particular oak tree stood out in the hedgerow as having serious
history. Oaks had already suffered their own form of pandemic with die back and
I wondered, during its evident centuries of life what the old oak might have
seen and endured. I took a photo and from that made a sketch to the required
page size. Transferring the image to the background material was as usual a
process of cutting up the original sketch and drawing around each segment.
There has to be an easier way but when needs must you’ve got no internet
connection to access that u-tube video showing you how, simply get on and find
your own solution. The entire tree was stitched using wool tweed yarn apart
from the very smallest of twigs. There is I’m sure a magnificent selection of
colours available in embroidery silks and cotton, but I preferred the
limitation of using what I had to hand. I used long stitch, blanket stitch and
French knots throughout. The result could not have been too far from reality as
Luana recognised immediately the old oak from across the valley. Writing the
imagined history of the tree came relatively easily to me as I stitched, but
fitting those words into the required page size was a process of trial and
error. It took several hand written copies of the text before I found a
suitable font size.
300 years ago a tender
shoot broke loose from an acorn forcing its way down into a rich clay loam.
Days later a vertical shoot ventured forth into a crisp spring morning. During
the winter of 1784 the oak suffered by the hand of man a massive shock when its
head and five major limbs were removed. This first harvest of burning timber
only served to make it stronger. Despite being unable to heal the wounds and
rot setting in to the point where it became partially hollow the aging tetard
persisted. Many such harvest were made over the following years as the
surrounding land continued to be cultivated by man, and while wars raged
wildlife sheltered beneath its limbs and within the folds of its bark. The old
oak hollow state provided it with added cylindrical strength that also
protected it during the age of the chainsaw, when men felled younger clean
trunked trees to burn. During the 20th century thousands of
kilometres of Brittany’s talus were destroyed, but tucked away deep within the
protective folds of the Ellez valley the old tetrad still stands, silently
marking the passage of time.
Tetard, translating as tadpole in French and is the name
given to oaks that have had their leading head removed. This often results in a
much shorter tree that over centuries of pollarding for fire wood can produce a
massive head with relatively narrow trunk that does indeed resemble a tadpole.
Such oaks growing on talus similar to the Cornish hedges are specific to a
small area within Central Finistere.
GEORGINA AND BILL-LINDA.
Rummaging through some old sketch pads from my trips to
Western Australia I came across some drawings done by Georgina and Nicky when
they came over with their parents Charley and Lara on a trip around Europe. I
remember well the two girls struggling to imagine just how old my house was.
1692 was way older than anything they’d seen in WA, and they thought the dark
interior must be full of ghosts. Having no television meant that pencil and
paper came in very useful and aged four and seven they both produced some
interesting images that now I felt would translate well in fabric. The first
drawing, done entirely by Georgina, required little in the way of changes other
than to redraw and scale up to my chosen page size. I kept all of the background
detail but enlarged the foreground to include two bunches of tulips either side
of the path and to balance that I put two white dogs stitched using French
knots. The text, as so often does came after. It seemed obvious that this was
indeed Georgina and her lips could only be cherry red to match the cherry tree
growing alongside her. The wonderfully hairy sun also has full smiling lips.
Opposite the cherry tree is another tree which seems to have come from a warmer
climate of palms or maybe ferns. Beyond on the far hills is a small house but
also a tepee, which I believe was inspired when visiting Luana’s parents and
seeing their tepee. When stitching the two fluffy white dogs I included a small
blue glass bead for the eyes, which I had coincidentally bought while out in
WA. I had no idea at this point just how significant these blue glass eyes
would turn out to be when I started stitching the accompanying image.
Once
again the drawing of the little girl was provided by Georgina but the irate fat
man was from Nicky’s hand. In placing the finer pink silk material used for the
face over the green background it gave the poor child a five o’clock shadow. I
reminded myself that I do not make mistakes when it comes to stitching so
decided to go along with it and add a Dan Dare cleft chin and stubble. What
sort of monstrous child was about to be revealed. Very trendy for these
confusing time I realised this would be Bill-Linda, cheekily apart from the
stubble, resembling my neighbour Belinda. Only when I had added the earing and
blue glass beaded necklace did the full sordid story become obvious. Those eyes
were indeed the same as appears on Georgina’s fluffy white dogs. Bill-Linda has
a necklace and ear rings made from the eyes of fluffy white dogs. The wonky roofed
house was provided by Nicky, but the tree made with a fragment of Arts and
Crafts movement upholstery material was taken from one of my own drawings when
aged four. Bill-Linda comes fully equipped for the butchery of fluffy white
dogs, as poking out from her handbag can be seen an axe head and a knife
handle. The bag itself, as if one didn’t already know is an I-bag, which seemed
so appropriate in this era of I-phones and I-pads. All the detailed work is
once again executed with tweed yarn apart from the delightful sprinkling of
silver tinsel threaded hearts across the blood red dress.
THE PRIVATE VIEW.
Using the childhood game of head body and legs, I produced
some strange images, and with a little bit of mix and match I devised three
very different characters. The central character was inspired by a ceramic
piece that I had seen thirty years earlier during an exhibition at the Black
Swan Gallery in Frome. It depicted a rather pompous looking camel standing on
two legs with one hand behind its back and the other holding a glass of wine. I
had been making ceramic animals myself and knowing my interest I was shown it
by the then director Anne O’Dwyer. She explained it was called the private view,
but unfortunately it had been damaged in transit so would not be going on show.
I regret to this day not having made an effort to buy it. My stitched rendition
of the private view sees three critics; one so short that he cannot possibly
see the beautiful rose painting, another snakes up his own walking cane of
importance to give them a close inspection through his half-moon glasses, while
the central character is all too occupied in drinking the wine and showing off
his own stunning tulip tail.
DAYS OF THE WEEK.
As the weeks of lockdown passed me by, I realised that I had
totally lost track of time and had very little idea of what day of the week it
was. One doesn’t have to look far for ideas, and so I settled on a candelabra
style tree. Out in the garden the fattest of exceedingly vocal pigeons, apply
named “clatter birds” would smash their way out of the trees as I wandered down
to pick the first courgettes, and so it seemed totally logical that these pigeons
would represent each day, and crowning them all the dove of peace to represent
Sunday. The rather dejected looking pigeons are inspired by naïve images I’d
seen in the downstairs cloakroom of my friend Polly Devlin’s house in London. A
couple of very oversized butterflies give spandrel balance to the image, while
a snail and willow puss moth give interest at ground level along with tulips
and the ever present eye of nature at the base of the tree.
FFP ERVE GOUCALOU 1692
I bought my Breton farm house back in 1989 for the princely
sum of £15,000. Shortly after I bought the adjoining derelict cottage for £900.
In the ensuing years I transformed them into what must be one of the finest
houses in the commune. The history is relatively easy to follow as the most
important original granite window lintel is inscribed with the then owner along
with the date of construction. I did a day of research several years ago in the
records office in Brest and discovered it had been inherited by the daughter Katherine
who married a Francois Core from Brennilis. Since then it had been owned by
every family in the village and most recently by the family L’hours, such was
the norm of intermarriage in rural communities. During the inheritance division
between the nine L’hours children, the house had been left with the bare
minimum of ground, but in English terms that was ample for a good half dozen
building plots. The letters FFP stand for fais
faire par, made to be made by, and so I decided to make it a marriage
sampler between Katherine and Francois. The image of the house depicts it in
its present form, but back in the 18th century it would not have had
so many windows. In fact the front of the old farm house probably only had one
window upstairs similar to the only other house in the village of that date.
The roof then would have been a steeper pitch and the first floor only used for
storage. During that period there were few actual farm buildings and the
animals lived inside with the people sharing the ground floor separated by a
rough wooden partition. The adjoining cottage, which served as my studio did
indeed have an outside staircase to the first floor entrance door but it was a
simply descent with no roof covering. The chein asseyez, or sitting dog dormer
windows also added during the period of extensive renovation. Kathrine and
Francois are depicted in typical 18th century dress, still seen
today on the ever popular Quimper ware pottery. The other decorative symbols
are those classically used in Breton furniture making.
TEDS DEMISE.
By now I had ceased to listen to any more depressing radio
news, preferring to remain with my rather jaded view of the human race and its
demise. On waking one morning, my eye caught that of the large teddy bear
sitting in the chair opposite. An idea started to form. Ted would represent
man, and in two illustrations I could depict his down fall and the reason for
it.
Ted thought to make a
trap the best idea he’d ever had. Later on reflection he wished he hadn’t.
The two images arrived fully formed and for Ted I had the
sun bleached portion of some velvet curtains I no longer used. By day Ted is
seen digging his whole surrounded by nature both above and below ground. The
mole I was particularly pleased with as at last I had found a use for the mole
skin I had cured a decade earlier. The two wooden spikes lie waiting to be
placed when the trap has been dug sufficiently deep. In the second image Ted is
shown later that night having fallen into his own trap. It would seem however
hard we try, we succeed only in making traps for ourselves. Too clever for our
own good, and a natural result of a too bigger brain. Dinosaurs became
oversized but they did not cause their own demise. We are too many, too
arrogant and selfish, which will inevitably be the cause our own destruction. Does
this worry me, not at all, and this led perfectly on to the next page.
WORDS FROM LORD BYRON.
There is a pleasure in
the pathless woods,
There is a rapture on
the lonely shore,
There is society where
none intrude, by the deep sea and music in its roar.
I love not man the
less, but nature more.
These words were stitched on a coarse linen and placed
simply within a classical sampler setting. Like so many child samplers of the
18th century the words are not immediately obvious as they are
intermingled with the various stitching technics and patterns.
THE BACK COVER.
I since childhood always had a fascination with insect, and
having found two small remnants of floral fabric I decided to use them as a
background for stumpwork insects. Due to the raised nature of the work this
could only be used as the back cover. Executed in a mixture of cottons and
tweed wool yarn these stumpwork insects as amongst the finest detailed work I
have produced and although somewhat stylized and exaggerated they do truly seem
to be crawling across the page.
ATTESTATION DE DEPLACEMENT DEROGATOIRE.
Throughout the confinement period everyone in France had to
fill out whenever they left their home an attestation de deplacement. This gave
you the right for one hour to take exercise, to get provisions, to assist a
family member or person in difficulty, to attend a meeting with administrators
or justice. Failure to fill out such a form correctly with your date and place
of birth resulted in an immediate fine of 130 euros. I felt this form now
merited its own page in my stitched book and as such should include a few
magnified images of viruses other than that of covid. During that summer I took
long walks along the valley calling in on friends, but also spending solitary
time with nature, revisiting as well as discovering corners of overgrown
woodland I hadn’t tramped through in over a decade. Wading in the shallows of
the Ellez River, swimming naked in the cool deeper sections, stretching out on
its mossy bank to dry in the sun, listening to a world that was sumptuously
silent.
PATCHWORK HOMES.
By now there seemed like there might be a window of
opportunity that would permit me to get back to Scotland. Although Norman had
sent me a mixed box of tweed yarns my mind was increasingly wandering and
wondering how my friends and home on Lewis were fairing. It felt like it was
now or never and so I booked my ticket, got the necessary checks and headed for
the ferry. Such was the level of disorder that I received three different
notices to inform me that the ferry the time and place of departure had changed
as well as the ferry itself. I eventually made the crossing from Ouistreham to
Portsmouth, arriving that evening. Parking and sleeping in the van just north
of Portsmouth I was able to make an early start and managed to do the entire
trip north in time to catch the ferry across the Minch and home to New Tolsta.
Maybe it was the lack of traffic, but even I was impressive with the endurance
one has when it comes to seeking the safe haven of home. It seemed only natural
that I should now be looking at island homes, as BBC Scotland’s Home of the
Year program had contacted me and was keen to see photographs. The idea of patchwork
came from an Esher like quilt that Kaffe Fassett made for an exhibition at the
American Museum at Claverton, outside Bath. The Fassett quilt depicted a
variety of oval hat boxes within a boxed design, and so decided to use this
idea but replace those boxes with a variety of dwellings found on the islands.
This included various rusty tin roofed dwellings, Nissan hut, Black house and
inevitably a variation of my own croft house. I had returned to my island and
home.
MAKE DO AND MEND.
For this classic sampler subject I chose once again a coarse
linen and stitched a variety of decorative ways of darning. The work involved
in darning is to my mind one of the most exacting, and to then add a decorative
weave into the repair goes above and beyond the call of duty. I felt at times that
I really did require a magnifying glass and could only think that such work
would have had to have been done by younger women with perfect eyesight. The rather random placement of these darning
patterns enabled me to choose an equally random selection of early sampler
motifs mostly from the early 18th century. The strange stag came
from a Nordic weaving pattern.
LADY PETHERSTON’S REMARKABLE BOSOM.
It was perhaps as a direct result of getting involved with
BBC Scotland and their Home of the Year program that my mind became occupied
with interiors. After their preliminary visit they had told me to change
nothing, but I felt a little light dusting and a run through with the vacuum
cleaner wouldn’t go a miss. The image that came to mind, while in my own parlour
was that of a Jane Austin novel, depicting a trio of fashionable ladies from
the early 19th century taking tea. It is only now looking back at
that completed image that I see it also has a certain doll’s house charm in
that everything is slightly out of scale. The fire place and over-mantel mirror
are enormous in comparison to the ladies seated around the table, and were a
fire to be lit in the grate they would surely roast. The height of the table is
no higher than that of the brass fender, but despite this the room has depth
with its view into the garden framed by a pair of lavishly draped curtains. These
curtains were made using mattress ticking as was the Regency striped wallpaper,
and the two black and white prints came from a remnant of toile material. The
inclusion of a Dalmatian dog and the none too content cat adds to the drama
while the geometric design carpet once again lend depth. The text as so often
happens came to me later as I was stitching. During the slow process of
stitching my mind wanders to all manner of things, but in this instant there
seemed to be a story behind the image. It was only having completed the three
figures that I noticed that two of the women seemed to be looking at the lady
on the left and more specifically looking at her bust. The resulting text
stemmed from this.
During the partaking
of tea in the front parlour Sid’s hissing went unnoticed as both Emily and
Maude Western admired the way in which a combination of powder blue stripes and
Honiton lace enhanced Lady Petherston’s remarkable bosom.
FRONT COVER.
I had gone through many different titles, but in the end
came back to simply “Stitched by Tom Hickman” I wanted to impart from the
outset a feeling of the dedication to detail and so incorporated that first
monastic like “S” to the word stitched. One of the earliest uses of stumpwork
was on 17th century book covers and so once again, being that outer
front cover I wanted to incorporate some form of raised work. The still life
image of a tray of fruit on a table gave me ample opportunity. The tray,
watermelon, pear, cherries, strawberries, lemon, orange and grapes were made
using a variety of coloured felt and highlight stitches, while the leaves, tray
boarder, candlestick and table cloth were done using tweed wool yarn, all of
this was stitched onto a heavy cream twill. The design of the book and how it
would fold using wooden hinges took a little time to perfect but with the
assistance of a cabinet maker friend Simon we managed to find the correct
profile to allow opening in both directions, and turn the all-important boxwood
finials and feet that act as decoration but also hold everything together.
THE FINAL PAGE.
At the beginning of October, and when consulting my Face
Book page I realised I’d missed my birthday. Nothing unusual there, but it did
remind me of my only ever birthday party when I was 50 years old. It took place
in France since at that time most of my closes friends were in Brittany. I held
it over an afternoon around the village bread oven. We had done some running
repairs to the old granite oven and over several weeks had got it running
efficiently. People brought things to cook, which included pizza and bread, but
also cakes and rice pudding. I was surprised just how many people turned up.
The weather was kind and it drifted on into the evening with music and singing
around a fire, and I was pleased that at the very end the half a dozen or so
who remained were all French. For this occasion I wrote a text which I attached
to the invitation, and it was this that I now felt was the perfect way to
finish the stitched book. Having embroidered an engraving like portrait of the
author as he was at the age of fifty I then stitched the all-important words.
When as a small boy
wondering what life might hold for me, it seemed vast. How could I have
possibly imagined: The intensity of love for another human and the devastation
of loss. The passion for beauty that would nourish my creative energy and that
which I was able to build by employing my anger and hatred of injustice. The
constant wonder in nature, the hope renewed with every sunrise and contentment
at its setting. The joy of those friendships around the world which confirmed
to me that reinforced my belief that there is good in all of us, also the difficulty
I would have at times in hanging on to that belief. The determination required
each day to combat that cliff face of irrational fears, and the courage to
simply say what I think. The fun I would have in playing the fool, laughing to
the point of crying. The enjoyment I get from living alone and yet not lonely
and the clarity that would bring to a life lived differently at my own pace.
The emotions that at times would overwhelm me and the relief in such feeling
could not kill me. The satisfaction in the choices I would make and the choices
I would take, even those that led nowhere. The pleasure I would derive from
cultivating a garden. The changes I would see in my world and the difficulties
I would have in accepting them. The knowledge after all those years I would
remain remarkably ignorant.
Re-reading this text I can still be reduced to tears, not
only for the depth of sentiment behind it but also the fact that I didn’t spot
the missing L in overwhelm when proof reading.
Started in March 2019, the entire project took me fifteen
months to complete.