It’s important to get out, I told myself, even on days like this. Important for both physical and mental health. I’d missed the brief fifteen minutes of sun around two o’clock and the approaching storm was surely not far off, so it was now or never. Donning full wet weather gear and a woolly bonnet of my father’s I ventured forth. I’d adapted the hat specifically for this sort of blustery conditions by knitting extra ear flaps and securing straps and with the water proof hood strings tied tightly under my chin I was ready for whatever the remainder of the day had to throw at me.
Walks are not planned, they just happen and my trajectory today
would be dictated by the south-south-westerly wind. So shutting and locking the
door behind me I stepped out. I would not normally lock the door but with the
wind face on to the front of the house I felt uneasy relying solely on the
latch. There is a knack to closing it and if someone came calling in my absence
I didn’t want to risk the door not being securely closed. Head down I made my
way up to the T junction and turned right, downhill towards the beach. The
ditches were full to brimming with peat stained water and at the culvert it
gurgled and thrashed impatient to reach its destiny. Like a reluctant child I
was being nudged forward by the wind’s parental guidance. Two cars passed as I
stood to one side and decided it would be safer to cross burn and fence for the
softer ground. I watched as both dog-less cars carried on along the dead end
coast road to Garry and wondered if they would quit the comfort of their
vehicles for the beach. I followed the mill stream transformed into an angry
torrent, churning and cleaving the land, spilling voluptuous over the granite boulders,
forming newly found falls. Staying to the sheep tracks high above the car park
I discovered a moment’s calm and ewes grazing contentedly on whatever tasty
growth the machair had to offer in late autumn. Down on the dunes it was a
different matter as the coarse grass bent seaward and wet sand drifted low
across Traigh Mhor beach. Three people and a leash straining dog made their way
back to the car as I turned and headed into the wind. Here it had the
uninterrupted mile and a half of beach to show its full force, whipping arches
of celebratory spray from foaming white crests. Hungrily the towering waves
devoured brown peaty moorland waters. The riot of noise from my flapping hood
deafening. The painful sting of fine rain on my face, plodding on, head down seaweed
at my feet interred beneath the shifting sands. Leaning into the wind I
staggered forward at times halting as the wind held me in its grip. Barely
quarter of the way along I gave up the struggle and made for the relative calm
of the dunes. There along with the sheep, beneath the steep slopes of the
machair I found a moment rest bite. But this is a walk and must be continued if
the circuit is to be completed, and a cup of hot tea and cake the reward. It’s
uphill and thankfully more sheltered but I zigzag none the less along sheep
trod terracing. At the brow I take the final step up, headlong into the
gale-force wind. If I am to make the
gate and track home there is no alternative. I totter drunkenly on, deafened by
the din of the flapping waterproof hood. A brief look up for direction, I
locate the gate and press on leaning forward, crazily determined. I find myself
singing or more accurately shouting defiant nothingness, roaring in the face of
this wonderful force of nature. I’m here, part of it, alive.
Making the gate I clamber through the gap at the hinged end
and turn sideways now up the track. This is a different sort of stagger, a
different sort of intoxication, an old persons teetering wobbly advancement but
what am I at 67 if not advancing in years. Passing George’s house I raise a
hand as I catch sight of him at the kitchen window. He at least won’t think I’m
mad. He’d understand that need to be out in it, feeling everything, all cobwebs
removed. On the road again the wind is at my back pushing and shoving me
relentlessly homeward. Walking is not the usual left right rhythm as I lurch
irregularly forward trying not to trip over my own feet or to end up sprawled
on the tarmac. A brief interlude of calm as I pass the treed hollow before
croft thirteen to fifteen and ahead my own front door awaits, within the centrally
heated warmth of my new peat fired Rayburn. The old £60 faithful of the past
twelve years, finally rusting and leaking, confined only two days ago to the
back yard. The new bright and shiny but decidedly more efficient arrived,
equally efficiently a day early from Gloucestershire and with help from
neighbours was installed and running by mid-afternoon.
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